Eco-labeling

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Illustration: Miljömärkningar

Eco-labeling aims to guide and inform buyers and consumers of goods and products. The labeling will encourage manufacturers and importers to develop more environmentally friendly products.

There are a variety of environmental labeling and environmental standards for textiles and the production of fibers. Some eco-labels have become demands when producing fiber, such as organic cultivation of cotton. Some have requirements for the subsequent processes, such as dyeing and finishing/after treatments. Some eco-labels have requirements for both dyeing and finishing/after treatments.

An eco-labeling is based on an environmental standard where a third party sets the requirements and these have to be followed in order to receive the label. The customer let the eco-labeling organizations handle the eco-labeling on order to show which products are the most eco-friendly. For the consumers that do not possess greater knowledge of environment hazards this proves to be simple but effective system. Below there are some briefly explained meanings of the most common textile eco-labels and environmental standards.

Good Environmental Choice

Logo Bra Miljöval

Swedish nature protective agency’s eco-label (referred to as SNPA in this article). Good Fiber and Good processing is SNPA’s two environmental standards for textiles. Good processing includes demands of the use of chemicals, sewage and energy consumption during the production process. To be allowed to use Good Fiber-labeling one is required to make sure that the fibers are organically grown and that the requirements for Good Preparation are met.

EKO Sustainable Textile Standard

EKO Sustainable Textile Standard is SKAL / Control Union's certification program for textiles. This calls for organically grown natural fibers and the manufacturing process. This mark is well known internationally.

Organic fibers

For a product to be called organic, it must have been produced according to EU regulations for organic production (Council Regulation (EEC) No 2092/91). Rules are developed for several areas where textile products are affected by organic farming and animal treatment. In addition to this there are special requirements for the manufacturing of textile fibers. For cotton and linen (flax) general crop production rules apply, such as banned chemical pesticides, fertilizers and genetically modified organisms. For wool producers, the same requirements apply as for any other livestock holder in the areas of fodder and pest control. Furthermore there is a requirement for water use in cotton production and also for the use of readily biodegradable chemical products used in the scouring/boiling of wool.

Control Organizations that appear most often in Sweden are: Control Union (formerly SKAL), TDA, IMO. Sometimes you can even see Bioland, CCOF, Ecocert Belgium, Bioinspecta Agreco.

EU – (blomman) the flower

Logo EU-Blomman

The EU Flower sets requirements mainly on the production process and focuses on reducing water pollution and reduction of hazardous substances, but has no requirements for organic fibers in raw material. Natural, artificial and synthetic fibers can become certified. In the cases where organic fibers are used you are allowed to print "organic cotton" next to the logo.

The criteria include the following processes in the textile life cycle:

• Fiber Production
• Spinning, weaving and knitting
• Wet processing
• Dyeing and finishing/after treatments
• Pressure
• Wastewater treatment (wet processing)

Furthermore, information should be provided concerning both energy and water consumption. Finally, it requires that the finished product must meet certain quality requirements in terms of usefulness to the consumer. When growing cotton it is not permitted to use pesticides that contain certain substances (defined under blacklists). To check that this has not been done it requires that the raw cotton is analyzed before it is woven or knit. Analysis should be done four times a year. If the cotton is 50 percent or more organically grown one analysis per year is enough. Organically grown cotton need not be analyzed. Here it is sufficient to prove that the cultivation has been organic, see also EU Regulation 2092/91, Organic production of agricultural products and indications referring thereto on agricultural products and foodstuffs.

For polyester production that is subject to the emission of VOCs (solvents/dissolvent) it should be less than 1.2 g / kg of polyester. Antimony in the polyester must not exceed 300 ppm. Pentachlorophenol may not be used at all during manufacture. Moreover there are a number of demands concerning extensive adhesives, detergents, dyes and pigments. In addition, requirements for that the solvent content of the print paste should not exceed 5 percent. Finally, the formaldehyde content of the finished product should not exceed 30 ppm in products for children and 75 ppm for other products.

GOTS - Global Organic Textile Standard

Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is a standard introduced in 2006 with the objective to harmonize the environmental standards that exist globally for textiles. It includes requirements for ecological raw materials and manufacturing processes. GOTS has two standards / labels.

KRAV (demand) – Kontrollförening för ekologisk odling (Control association for organic farming)

KRAV is a business association which mainly focuses on organic food production. KRAV criteria for textile products only apply to raw material, which is why you cannot find KRAV-labeled textiles in a regular store. A textile product consisting of cultivated cotton that meets KRAVS demands bear the words "Contains KRAV grown cotton." Certification is carried out by the subsidiary Aranea Certification AB.

Soil Association

Information saknas.

Svanen (Swan)

Logo Svanen

Svanen demands that residues of chemicals in raw fibers and the finished product does not exceed specified values. The rules regarding the residues in the fiber is not applied if the fiber is composed of recycled cotton, linen (flax) or wool. A lot of requirements for the processing of fabrics which include a range of chemicals may not be used or only allowed in limited numbers. A basic requirement for obtaining Svanen-brand on a textile product is that you meet the criteria for the EU-Flower. In addition to this there is criteria for organic production of natural fibers (farming and animal housing), energy and water consumption, ethical production, recycling systems for products and packaging. Furthermore, it is required that the holder of the swan license meets all requirements, laws and regulations concerning safety, environment and working environment that is established in the production countries. For environmental and quality control of the work the producers do they have to introduce procedures and instructions to ensure that the Svanen criterias are met and maintained

Öko-Tex Standard 100

Logo Öko-Tex 100

Öko-Tex eco-label, Öko-Tex Standard 100, is an independent humane-organic labeling that aims to gain safety for humans in the area of garments. Öko-Tex guarantees the absence of hazardous substances according to predetermined limits. For yarns, fabrics and textile goods of all kinds specified limits for substances that may be harmful to humans are set. These limits are updated continuously. The label has a wide international support, since most of Western Europe's textile research institutes are connected. In Sweden, the textile research institute, IFP, in Gothenburg is responsible for certification. Particularly in Germany it is common for customers to require that the products are approved according to Öko-Tex. This label has had a major international breakthrough.

Tests are carried out based on the purpose of the textile product. The closer material is to the body the tougher the limits of what the material may contain. The limits are set for color and how well the processing of the material can handle, i.e. sweat. Fabric pH shall also be within a certain range for what resembles the skin's normal pH. Although the range of pH varies depending on how skin tight fabric is intended to be.

The different classes are:

Class I: Textiles and textile toys for children, such as clothing, underwear, bedding and blankets. Toys include those consisting of textile materials and are intended for children up to three years. This class has the highest requirement settings and thus, for most substances, the toughest limits. The reason for this is that small children are considered more sensitive and partly through their delicate skin, but also because they "put everything in their mouths." In addition to pH, and perspiration, it is important to also perform tests to determine the material resistance to saliva.

Class II: Textiles with direct skin contact. This class includes textiles and garments that are meant to be used in direct contact with the body, such as underwear, bed linen, toweling goods, shirts and blouses. The limits for the presence in the material is slightly higher in this class than in class I, while the pH value is the same, that is, the items are intended for body-related products.

Class III: Textiles not in direct contact with skin, textiles in this group include outdoor-garments and lining/stuffing. These will not be in direct contact with skin and that is why limits for pH has a wider tolerance range. Otherwise, the limits are the same as Class II.

Class IV: Interior Textiles. This class is directed towards the furnishing textiles such as tablecloths and curtains, as well as wall fabrics and carpets. Here the same pH and other limits are as for Class III.

öko-Tex 1000

Logo Öko-Tex 1000

As a natural development of the Öko-Tex Standard 100 a new standard was introduced in 1995. This standard, called the Öko-Tex 1000, also covers the ecological production aspects. The requirements for obtaining such certification include specific criteria for manufacturing operations. You should be able to demonstrate that at least 30% of the total production is already certified under the Öko-Tex Standard 100. The requirement for the production means that you should avoid or limit the use of harmful substances. You should also follow the emission limits to air and water, and optimize your energy use. With focus on the for the production staff you also have to ensure a low noise level, reduce or eliminate particulate and dust pollution and introduce measures to ensure safe operation. The companies are revised after their certification every three years by an independent body, which is a member of the Öko-Tex International, "Association for the Assessment of Environmentally Friendly Textiles".

Öko-Tex 100 plus

Logo Öko-Tex 100 plus

If a company is certified according to the requirements of Öko-Tex 1000 and have their products certified according to Öko-Tex 100, they may apply for a special mark for their products. This label is called Öko-Tex 100 plus and demands that you live up to the criteria from the other two certifications. A further requirement is that the company should be able to prove that the total production chain, that is, all companies without exception that are involved in a particular product is certified according to Öko-Tex 1000.

All tests performed on textile products are performed according to standardized test methods that are described in the "Öko-Tex Standard 200 - Testing Procedures". Other standards are Öko-Tex 100 and Öko-Tex 1000 which provides guidance on product and production conditions for an upcoming certification.

History

The start of today's eco-labeling of textiles came from a company in Denmark, which began marketing its products under the name Green Cotton. The company alerted the media and the public that a large number of pesticides were used in the cultivation of cotton. Parallel to this organically grown cotton was launched into the market. After the Green Cotton brand was introduced a number of other eco-labels were founded. The consumer was greeted by a jungle of environmental information. Other actors got involved in the eco-labeling process. Society for Nature Conservation (Naturskyddsföreningen) (Good Environmental Choice-labeling) and SIS (the Svanen (Swan) label) ensured that a more official eco-label was developed. Another type of eco-labels, specializing in human ecology was produced by Öko-Tex (Öko-Tex Standard 100).

External Links

* Svanen/EU-blomman, 2009

• Bra Miljöval - Naturskyddsföreningen
• IFP Research

* Oeko-Tex Standard 100