Changes

In order to produce fabrics with various protection functions they can be based either on a fiber material that haves particular characteristics already during manufacture or it can subsequently provide the material properties through preparation. The latter method is most common.

The use of flame treatment is regulated by the provisions of building codes or other provisions for fire safety, such as for clothes for work where they can be exposed to fire and heat. Even for upholstery and curtains there is a need to provide flame treatment. In principle, all fibers of organic origin can be ignited at high temperatures, but the most important is to prevent local fires from spreading. Frequently used textile fibers, such as cotton, can have fire retardant properties by various treatments. The most common way to provide fire protection on standard textile fibers is by impregnation with chemicals which contain nitrogen and phosphorus or a combination of halogenated hydrocarbons and antimony. Phosphorus-nitrogen compounds can be wash-resistant to cellulose fibers and is also available in flame-washable polyester fibers. Halogenated hydrocarbons and antimony usually provides poor wash ability and are therefore used mainly in materials that are not going to be washed. Another relatively frequent treatment for fire protection of wool fiber and its protein is to use salts from metals such as titanium and zirconium. There are also synthetic high temperature fibers to choose as an alternative to chemical treatment.

A fabric can be made water and oil repellent by a polymer coat put on the fabric. This makes the fabric completely sealed which can cause comfort problems since the body's evaporation and perspiration cannot be vented. The fibrous material can also be made water and oil repellent by the fiber surfaces that have low surface energy that is not wetted by water or oil. Since ancient times, there have been treatments with waxes, metal soaps and paraffin. These treatments will repel water, but they have not been able to resist oils. Silicone can provide water repellency and in some cases oil repellency. The treatments with waxes, paraffin, metal soaps and silicones had limited wash-resistant functions. Fluorocarbons are becoming increasingly common in use to provide water, oil and stain repellency, fluorocarbons have good wash fastness if you follow the special washing instructions.

DWR (durable water repellent) is a coating added to fabrics at the factory. Durable water repellents (DWRs) are applied to garments and products to allow for breathability and water repellency. Common factory-applied treatments are fluorochemicals. Certain DWRs are known to have persistent, bioaccumulative and toxicological effects on the environment. The durable water repellent coatings used in the fashion and textile industry are currently not bio-based or biodegradable. Water repellent coatings also inhibit recyclability.

• Investigate non-fluorochemical coatings, such as silicones, polyurethane (PU) and waxes. Although these coatings are recyclable on their own, they inhibit recyclability when applied to a dissimilar base layer. These coatings have the potential for recyclability if applied to a similar base layer.1<br/>

• Work with manufacturers to create bio-based or biodegradable water repellent finishes.<br/>

• Investigate recyclable waterproofing agents. Sympatex is made of completely safe polyether/ester, a combination of polyester and polyether molecules that is reportedly recyclable if applied to a similar base layer (i.e. polyester). Sympatex contains zero fluorochemicals.2<br/>

• Investigate durable water repellents from alternative, renewable non-toxic resources, such as castor oil.

Stain repellent finishes are used to provide stain, soil and grease release and repellency to fabrics. Fluorochemicals are the most employed repellents used for textiles. The largest concern for chemicals used for soil and stain repellent finishes is perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA), which is used in the manufacture of stain repellent finishes for textiles. PFOA is also produced indirectly through the gradual breakdown of fluorochemicals.3 PFOA is very persistent in the environment and has been found at very low levels both in the environment and in the blood of the general U.S. population.4 Recycling of textiles with stain repellent finishes is also very difficult. Flurochemicals are currently being phased out by major industrial users.5

• Investigate short chain fluorocarbons that do not degrade into PFOA.<br/>

• Investigate stain resistant finishes that do not involve the use of PFOA, such as finishes from DuPont.<br/>

Synthetic and blended fabrics are antistatic treated to reduce the problem of static charge in the manufacturing and use. Usually added substances are quaternary ammonium or acid amides and ethoxylates which increase the conductivity of the fiber surfaces. The treatment is done either by its own final impregnation or in addition to the normal end of the treatment. Wash resistance of antistatic treated products varies.

Need for mold protection is greatest on natural fibers since they are easier to be attacked by mildew and rot than synthetic fibers. It is not allowed to perform mold protection on textile products in Sweden. Even though, goods with this type of impregnation still reaches the country through imports.

Of the chemicals used in flame retardant treatment there has recently been paid special attention to brominated biphenyls and biphenyl. It is found that they accumulate in aquatic organisms. These [[flame retardants]] have been removed in manufacturing in Sweden. Although the brominated compound hexabromcyclododekan (HBCD) have been shown to be stored in the environment. It has been found in fish from Viskan (river in southwest Sweden) (study by the Environmental Protection Agency 1995/96). For this reason the Swedish textile industry sharply reduced emissions of this substance. Conclusions indicate that the substance can be classed as [[bio accumulative]] and very [[toxic]] to aquatic organisms. Also the use of other [[halogenated flame retardants]] have been severely restricted and the same applies to retardant fibers. These are produced by copolymerization between vinyl chloride (mod acrylic). Chlorinated paraffin are toxic to aquatic organisms and bio accumulating. Chlorinated paraffin with a high degree of chlorination is also persistent, i.e. Non-degradable. Antimony compounds are hazardous and can be contaminated with lead and arsenic. Phosphates (Propane and Pyrovatex) are not toxic but are persistent and can be potentially [[bio accumulative]]. In addition, they can cause malfunctions if they are placed in water-cleaning and treatment plants. [[Melamine]], used in conjunction with the phosphates to achieve wash-resistant flame retardants, has low acute toxicity to aquatic organisms and low biodegradability.

For wrinkle and dimensional stability treatments todays mostly used ones are cyclic urea without or with formaldehyde. Recently, the content of free formaldehyde is reduced by the health and allergy reasons. There is ideas of formaldehyde-free and formaldehyde poor substances. Although melamine formaldehyde compounds are used for these treatments (see Environmental facts protection treatments). The urea’s and melamine’s acute toxicity to aquatic organisms are strongly dependent on the amount of free formaldehyde and glyoxal (cyclic urea). Both aldehydes are readily biodegradable. No information was found regarding the degradability of partially reacted urea and melamine. In the case when softener is used it is often the same, describing the anti-static agent under the heading Environmental Facts - protective treatment agent ,page 46. For soil-repellent treatment agent refers to substances for water and oil repellency, since they are similar. Regarding soil release treatments they are essentially hydrophilic and readily soluble in water. Polyacrylic acid with a low degree of polymerization is easily degradable in aquatic environments, while CMC and ethoxylates are said to be more persistent. Allergic rash of textiles due to formaldehyde was for about 25 years ago are quite common but are now very uncommon.

==Sources==

[[Textile Environmental Handbook]]