Öko-tex 100

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Öko-Tex Standard 100 is a human eco-labeling organization with the user of the textile material in the center. Öko-Tex has specified values for over 100 different harmful substances in production or for the end user. The limits and the list of substances are updated annually due to new knowledge and new laws and regulations that will arise. The goal is that an Öko-Tex certified product shall comply with all laws and regulations of any country.

Öko-Texs origin is the Austrian Textile Research Institute and the Öko-Tex organization now consists of 13 European textile research institutes including Swerea IVF in Sweden and an institution in Japan. Offices are located worldwide. The label has received wide international distribution, primarily as a tool in "business to business" but is becoming more and more known even for the final consumer. Öko-Tex modular system means that each link in the textile manufacturing chain is responsible for its own production. To ensure that no harmful substances are passed on to the next step of the chain certifications may be performed after each processing step.

Requirement documents are the same whether it's fiber or finished products. However, some differences in certifications can be made if the substance is meant for baby products, products with skin contact, without skin contact or products used as decoration materials.

The latest edition of Öko-Tex Standard 100 has tables of limit values and the individual specifications can be downloaded from the Öko-Tex website.

Control of processes

Here are some tips you should consider at each process step of the textile inputs if the final product is already Öko-Tex certified.

Fiber Production

Fiber manufacturer takes responsibility for his/her part and controls the presence of extractable heavy metals and pesticides as well as making sure that no harmful substances such as formaldehyde, chlorinated phenols, ortho phenyl phenol and organot are found in compounds like spinning oil. pH and free amines that can be formed in the manufacture of elastanes should also be included in the control program. Fibers may be in colored form, either spin dyed or colored in special machines. Then, the dye-related parameters are also monitored. (See also: dyeing)

Yarn Production

If no additives are put in the spinning of fibers into yarn, no harmful substances will arise and the yarn can move on to the next process. Some yarns are sold as pre-glued warp yarns. These are checked for pH, formaldehyde, chlorinated phenoler, orthophenylphenol and organotin compounds.

Production of tricot or weaving

When knitting textile materials there might be some use of knitting oils. These should be monitored for chlorophenols, orthophenylphenol and other preservatives such as formaldehyde. In weaving the warp yarns are glued. The finished web is monitored for pH, formaldehyde, chlorophenols, orthophenylphenol and organotin compounds.

Bleaching and dyeing

After knitting or weaving there is the wet-chemical treatments such as bleaching, coloring, plasticizers, antistatic treatment and / or other finishing treatments. These treatments are notoriously the most demanding chemical treatments. In materials of bleached cellulose fibers the pH is very important since the process is carried out with much alkali. If the final product is bleached it is to be tested for other chemical parameters to.

The parameters tested after dyeing if the product is not going to finish treatment is the pH, formaldehyde, extractable heavy metals and the presence of azo dyes that may turn into banned aryl amines. Note that most textile dyes are azo dyes but it is now only a few (relatively speaking) of those that can be decomposed to the so-called MAK amines that are carcinogens or suspected carcinogens. These amines are also regulated under EU directives. If the textiles consists of polyester, or acetate fibers they are checked for allergenic dyes that may be present in disperse dyes. In the dyeing of polyester carriers of the type chlorobenzenes and toluenes shall not be used. In addition, you should ensure that no chlorinated phenols, organotin compounds or formaldehyde is added in textile chemicals.

Finish Treatment

Finish treatment includes coating. There is the use of phthalates as plasticizers in coatings. Some of these are regulated by product classes I and II. Materials which can emit volatile substances such as mattresses, carpets, blinds and similar are tested for VOCs, volatile organic compounds. With regard to flame retardants and biologically active substances that prevent bacteria growth, there is the Öko-Tex website www.Öko-tex.com where a list of ingredients and fibers that are accepted by Öko-Tex can be found. The product class IV prohibits some flame retardants while other flame retardants are allowed. Materials must also have some color fastness to water, perspiration and rubbing. For baby items that are in Class I, there are special criteria about saliva and sweat, which means that the material may not release any color or decolorize supplied fabric in the tests. The final product after dyeing and finishing treatment is monitored for pH, formaldehyde, extractable metals, chlorinated phenols, orthophenylphenol, organotin compounds, banned azo dyes, possibly allergenic dyes, chlorinated benzenes and toluene as well as color-resistant substances.

At the last process which is the production of garments there are a variety of accessories used in addition to weaving or knitting such as zippers, buttons, various bands, applications, labels and more. These materials should be controlled. Especially if you want to label the final product with the Öko-Tex symbol. Then all the components of the garment meets the requirements of Öko-Tex Standard 100.

How can one be confident that no harmful substances are found in the final product?

The best way is to have control on the inputs you use. With regard to chemicals and dyes one should make demands on ones suppliers so that there are none of the regulated substances in their goods. One can find some information in the safety descriptions such as what type of dye or chemical is used. Unfortunately, safety data sheets are not always sufficient. Then you should contact the supplier for additional information. Some parameters are dependent on production such as pH, formaldehyde and dyes. These tests should be included in the regular production control. Öko-Tex Standard 200 briefly describes the test methods used by the Öko-Tex, and this standard can be the basis for the tests you want to conduct yourself. Regarding the textile inputs it is easier if they are already Öko-Tex certified and then put in respective classes.

Product classes

As mentioned earlier, the requirements differ depending on the product class the product will be certified in. In view of the Oeko-Tex modular system, it is important that, right at the fiber stage to think of who or what the end user will be. Basic Materials and supplies should be certified to the product class that applies to the final product. The highest requirements are for products that are certified as Class I. If a product meets the material requirements of Class I it can also meet the requirements of the other classes.

Products for babies - product class I

All articles, basic materials and accessories used for the production of articles for babies up to 36 months, such as textiles, toys, underwear, rompers, costumes, bedding, toweling items, skirts, blouses and soft toys etc. Leather garments are excluded.

Products with direct skin contact - product class II

All articles where the majority of the surface is in direct contact with the skin such as underwear, bedding, toweling items, skirts, blouses and more.

Products without direct contact with the skin - product class III

Articles which are used when only a small part of the surface is in direct contact with the skin, for example, outdoor wear and lining etc.

Decoration Materials - product class IV

Items used for decoration such as table cloths, curtains, wallpaper, upholstery, carpets, mattresses etc. Before Oeko-Tex certificates are issued, the company writes a declaration that their products comply and are consistent with the samples submitted for testing and that they have quality and control systems which ensure that its products meet the requirements. The certificate is issued when all necessary information is reviewed and representative samples are tested and approved, then it is valid for one year. This can later after re-assessment and testing extended to one year at a time.