Modal
Modal is the trade name for a cellulose-based rayon fiber manufactured by the company Lenzing. Modal is categorized as a “manufactured” or “man-made” fibre created from cellulose originating from beech trees. It is then chemically processed and regenerated to form a new polymer using the viscose process. The material properties for modal material properties are similar to cotton traditional viscose, however it has three major differentiating characteristics: the manufacturing process for Modal is less toxic and it has greater wet strength, which means that Modal is machine washable. It is called ”man made cotton” as it has many similarities with the cotton characteristics and appearance.
Contents
Benefits
Beech trees are soil enhancers, breed naturally and do not need artificial irrigation. The beech tree is naturally resistant to pests and disease.[1]
Modal’s distinguishing fibre characteristics are its extra softness and high wet strength. Modal is machine washable, and can be washed in cold water and drip-dried, thereby minimizing water and energy use associated with consumer care and washing. Modal fibres do not shrink or get pulled out of shape when wet, like viscose.[2] Modal drapes well, is easy to dye, and is highly absorbent.
Lenzing Modal® is the registered brand name for the second generation of viscose fibres manufactured by Lenzing in Austria. The fibre is harvested from beech trees in PEFC (Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification) certified European forests.[2][3] The Lenzing Modal® manufacturing process is non-toxic and operates in a system where 95% of outputs are recovered, filtered and reused.[1] Lenzing Modal® Colour is a unique process that addresses environmental impacts from dying. Lenzing Modal® Colour adds the colour pigment directly to the fibre matrix, so dyeing is no longer necessary. Tests show when processing Lenzing Modal® Colour, up to 80% of energy and up to 76% of water can be saved in comparison to the standard fibre (in jet dyeing).[2]Lenzing Modal® Colour can achieve most colours, including black.[4] Lenzing Modal® and Lenzing Viscose® Austria are the only man-made fibres which are carbon neutral.
Potential impacts
Dyeing and finishing
Not all colours can be Lenzing Modal® Colour, so traditional dyeing methods might have to be used. The dyeing process for modal is a multi-step process that involves ample amounts of water at high temperatures.
Consumer care/washing
Electricity and water use in the care of the garment can cause significant environmental impacts. Certain chemicals used in at-home products have been reported to have detrimental affects on humans and the environment, contribute to ozone depletion and can pollute wastewater.
End of use
Although there are several claims that Modal is biodegradable, there is no research substantiating this fact. Since Modal is chemically processed, the likelihood of biodegradability within a reasonable amount of time is minimal. If these garments end up in landfill, they are likely to remain there for decades.
Optimize sustainability benefits
• Use Lenzing Modal® since this Lenzing discloses its raw material source which is verified as coming from certified sustainably harvested forests.
• Cross check with Lenzing that the fabric supplier is one of their supply chain partners.
• Ask for Lenzing “certification” on the fabric.
• Use Lenzing Modal® Colour.
• OEKO-TEK certified [5] modal fabrics: OEKO-TEK is an independent, third party certifier that offers two certifications for textiles: OEKO-TEK 100 (for products) and OEKO-TEK 1000 (for production sites/factories). OEKO-TEK 100 label aims to ensure that products pose no risk to health. OEKO-TEK certified products do not contain allergenic dye-stuffs and dye-stuffs that form carcinogenic aryl-amines. The certification process includes thorough testing for a long list of chemicals. Specifically banned are: AZO dyes, carcinogenic and allergy-inducing dyes, pesticides, chlorinated phenols, extractable heavy metals, emissions of volatile components, and more.
Availability
Modal is readily available.
Lenzing Modal® is readily available and the fibre is produced in three production sites: Mobile, Alabama, USA; Grimsby, United Kingdom; and Heiligenkreuz, Burgenland, Austria.
Modal® is often blended with cotton, wool or synthetic fibres and allows easy tone-in-tone dyeing.
Applications
Modal fibres are especially favored for loungewear, sleepwear and undergarments. They can also be found in 100% form and blends with cotton, wool, silk and synthetic in apparel, outerwear and household furnishings.[6]
Marketing opportunities
Lenzing Modal® If used and verified. PEFC certified Must be verified, and can be claimed on POS items at retail. OEKO-TEK® Standard 100 certified If used and verified.
Innovation opportunities
1. Encouraging handwashing in cold water on the hangtag and
labeling/POS would influence the consumer to take an active role in reducing environmental impacts of modal at the consumer washing stage.
2. Explain the difference between the viscose process and the production process used for Lenzing Modal® on your website or POS materials.
3. Let the capabilities of Lenzing Modal® Colour persuade your decision- making when it comes to colour choices.
4. Explore recycling options for 100% modal as a raw material for regenerated cellulose fibre production.
Sources
- https://www.euforgen.org/fileadmin/bioversity/publications/pdfs/1322_European_beech__Fagus_sylvatica_.pdf
- https://www.lenzing.com/en/fibres/lenzing-modal/applications/lenzing-modal-colour.html
- https://www.pefcregs.info
- lenzinginnovation.lenzing.com/fileadmin/template/pdf/Texworld_USA_2012/16_01_2012_2_PM_Lenzing_Edelweiss.pdf
- https://www.OEKO-TEK.com/media/downloads/Factsheet_OETS_100_EN.pdf
- https://www.lenzing.com/en/fibres/lenzing-modal/height-of-fashion.html
