== Benefits ==
Wool is a natural fibre and renewable. It is valued for its natural warmth and water repellence.
Merino, cashmere, mohair, alpaca, camel, and angora wools are all valued for their softness, comfort, wrinkle resistance and luster. Mohair and alpaca are even naturally non-pilling.The surface of wool fibre is water- dirt- and stain-repellent, whilst the fibre interior is highly moisture absorbent, making it a comfortable fabric to wear.
Wool absorbs odours and for this reason, is considered self-cleaning. Wool tends not to smell bad, even after long periods of wear. Because
of this, wool garments do not need to be washed frequently.[1] In 100% form, wool fabric is biodegradable after its useful life, though absolute biodegradability depends on the dyes and trims used, and route of disposal.
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== Potential impacts ==
=== Cultivation/Animal welfare ===
====Wool from sheep====
Merino sheep have been specially bred to produce more volume of higher quality wool than other breeds. This is enabled by their convoluted skin, which provides a greater surface area on which more fibre can be grown. But some reports indicate that the increased weight of wool can strain the sheep and lead to heat stroke, dehydration and even death. In addition, urine and moisture tend to build up in the wrinkles of the skin, attracting flies, particularly the blowfly, and maggots around the sheep’s rump. A compensation procedure known as mulesing involves carving skin from the back legs of the sheep to make the area smoother and less prone to flies.
Mulesing has been a hotly debated subject amongst activist groups and the textile industry as a whole. Activist reports note significant cruelty to animals during this procedure, whereas advocates describe mulesing as "a very cost-effective and simple way" to protect against flystrike, says Wool Producers Australia president Geoff Power. There have been brand boycotts and country-wide phase-out plans of mulesing, but some farmers in Australia report mulesing to still be the most cost-effective approach.[2]
Alternatives to mulesing to prevent flystrike include spray-on chemicals. These chemicals can be harmful to humans if the proper protective equipment is not worn, and can contaminate receiving water bodies if not disposed of properly.[3]
All breeds of sheep are treated with pesticides (organophosphates and pyrethroids) to control lice and parasites. These chemicals may be applied directly to the fleece or by submerging the sheep into chemical solution pools (sheep dips).
====Cashmere from goats====
Although a profitable source of income for farmers, the impact of overgrazing of cashmere goats has reportedly contributed to land degradation and desertification, and as a result loss of biodiversity in Mongolia and other countries. This is because goats are insatiable eaters compared to other livestock, and consume the root of the grass, thereby stopping it from growing altogether. To accommodate the growing cashmere industry, and the resulting drop in cashmere prices, farmers increase the size of their herds to compensate, therefore increasing the impact on land. [4]
There is little reliable information supporting animal cruelty to cashmere goats. However, due to increased consumer demand for cashmere, overall consumer demand for inexpensive products, increase in herd size, and lack of standards regulating proper treatment of animals in cashmere-producing countries, relationships with producers should be closely monitored to ensure friendly practices are being implemented.
===Processing===
====Scouring====
Around two-thirds of the weight of the wool fibre by weight is grease, dried sweat salts, skin flakes, dirt and dried plant matter. To remove these substances from the wool fibre, a cleaning or scouring process is carried out at hot temperatures (approx. 60-66º C) in an aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide and detergent.[5 ] Scouring consumes large amounts of water, and produces an effluent with high biological oxygen demand (BOD) and high-suspended solids content.[6 ] This reduces the dissolved oxygen (DO) levels meaning less oxygen is available to fish and other aquatic organisms. Trace elements of pesticides also remain in the wastewater. Some of these detergents used for scouring are banned in Europe, but not elsewhere.[7]
====Shrink proofing====
Anti-shrinking treatments prevent wool from felting during wash and generally include chlorine in some form. Chlorine-Hercosset is a treatment used on wool fibre. Dry chlorination is a treatment carried out on wool fabric using chlorine gas. Repeat exposure to chlorine can affect the human respiratory system. In addition, depending on the amount used and how it is handled, chlorine may be released into the air and water and in certain conditions may form dioxins.[8 ] The wastewater from the wool chlorination process contains chemicals of environmental concern. Due to these chemicals, this wastewater cannot be accepted by water treatment facilities in the United States. Therefore all chlorinated wool is processed in other countries, and then imported.[9]
===Dyeing===
===End of use===
Although 100% wool fibre is biodegradable, the amount of time it could take for a wool product to decompose naturally and in a short period of time is dependent upon a number of conditions—including how much air, temperature and sunlight the fibre is exposed to. If the waste is buried in a landfill, it can take even longer for it to break down.[10]
==Optimize sustainability benefits==