Difference between revisions of "Lyocell"
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Lyocell is a regenerated ([[artificial fibers]]). [[Tencell]] is the most common commercial name of lyocell. It is a relatively new fiber that can be assigned a variety of looks and features, all from silk to cotton-like. Lyocell fibre is made from cellulose originating from eucalyptus wood and it has unique material properties that can be suitable for a variety of different applications. The fiber is strong and durable to wash with little risk of shrinkage. The manufacturing process for lyocell is a closed loop process, which makes it a viable sustainable alternative to cotton, viscose and possibly other synthetics. | Lyocell is a regenerated ([[artificial fibers]]). [[Tencell]] is the most common commercial name of lyocell. It is a relatively new fiber that can be assigned a variety of looks and features, all from silk to cotton-like. Lyocell fibre is made from cellulose originating from eucalyptus wood and it has unique material properties that can be suitable for a variety of different applications. The fiber is strong and durable to wash with little risk of shrinkage. The manufacturing process for lyocell is a closed loop process, which makes it a viable sustainable alternative to cotton, viscose and possibly other synthetics. | ||
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In 1991 Lyocell was introduced on the international market under the brand name Tencel and was classified as a type of artificial silk but The Federal Trade Commission designated, in 1996, Lyocell fibers as a separate fiber group, the first in 30 years. In May 2004, Lenzing who previously sold Lyocell under the name of Lenzing Lyocell, took over Tencel and is now the leading producer in the market. | In 1991 Lyocell was introduced on the international market under the brand name Tencel and was classified as a type of artificial silk but The Federal Trade Commission designated, in 1996, Lyocell fibers as a separate fiber group, the first in 30 years. In May 2004, Lenzing who previously sold Lyocell under the name of Lenzing Lyocell, took over Tencel and is now the leading producer in the market. | ||
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In all applications, lyocell has moisture wicking properties, good absorbency, is wrinkle resistant and has good drapability. | In all applications, lyocell has moisture wicking properties, good absorbency, is wrinkle resistant and has good drapability. | ||
| − | Fiber production is environmentally friendly in comparison to the production of | + | Fiber production is environmentally friendly in comparison to the production of [[viscose]] that requires environmentally hazardous chemicals. To transform hard wood into lyocell fabric, the cellulose must be separated from other compounds found in the trees. The wood material is dissolved through an intensive chemical processes into a pulp, which is then extruded to form fibres. The solvent used to transform the pulp into fibre is amine oxide (NMMO=N-Methyl-Morpholine-N-Oxide), which is considered non-toxic. |
TENCEL® lyocell is the registered brand name for lyocell fibres manufactured by Lenzing in Austria. The TENCEL® lyocell fibre manufacturing process operates as a closed loop system, in which 99.8% of the solvent is recovered, filtered and reused and any remaining emissions are broken down harmlessly in biological wastewater treatment plants.[1,2,3] | TENCEL® lyocell is the registered brand name for lyocell fibres manufactured by Lenzing in Austria. The TENCEL® lyocell fibre manufacturing process operates as a closed loop system, in which 99.8% of the solvent is recovered, filtered and reused and any remaining emissions are broken down harmlessly in biological wastewater treatment plants.[1,2,3] | ||
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==Marketing opportunities== | ==Marketing opportunities== | ||
'''TENCEL® lyocell''' Fabric should be referred to as TENCEL® lyocell. | '''TENCEL® lyocell''' Fabric should be referred to as TENCEL® lyocell. | ||
| − | '''low impact fibre''' Since lyocell is derived from a natural renewable resource, and developed using a closed loop process it is considered a low impact fibre, and can be safely labeled as such. | + | <br/>'''low impact fibre''' Since lyocell is derived from a natural renewable resource, and developed using a closed loop process it is considered a low impact fibre, and can be safely labeled as such. |
| − | '''FSC-certified''' If TENCEL® lyocell from FSC-certified plantations is used, this can be claimed. | + | <br/>'''FSC-certified''' If TENCEL® lyocell from FSC-certified plantations is used, this can be claimed. |
| − | '''PEFC-certified''' If TENCEL® lyocell from PEFC-certified plantations is used, this can be claimed. | + | <br/>'''PEFC-certified''' If TENCEL® lyocell from PEFC-certified plantations is used, this can be claimed. |
| − | '''biodegradable''' All fibres, yarns, trims and dyes used to manufacture the product or garment must also be biodegradable, or disassembled before disposal. This should be substantiated with documentation that the product can completely break down into non-toxic material by being processed in a facility where compost is accepted. Secondary label or marketing material should be provided to instruct customer. | + | <br/>'''biodegradable''' All fibres, yarns, trims and dyes used to manufacture the product or garment must also be biodegradable, or disassembled before disposal. This should be substantiated with documentation that the product can completely break down into non-toxic material by being processed in a facility where compost is accepted. Secondary label or marketing material should be provided to instruct customer. |
==Innovation opportunities== | ==Innovation opportunities== | ||
Latest revision as of 14:25, 2 April 2015
English (en) svenska (sv)
Lyocell is a regenerated (artificial fibers). Tencell is the most common commercial name of lyocell. It is a relatively new fiber that can be assigned a variety of looks and features, all from silk to cotton-like. Lyocell fibre is made from cellulose originating from eucalyptus wood and it has unique material properties that can be suitable for a variety of different applications. The fiber is strong and durable to wash with little risk of shrinkage. The manufacturing process for lyocell is a closed loop process, which makes it a viable sustainable alternative to cotton, viscose and possibly other synthetics. In 1991 Lyocell was introduced on the international market under the brand name Tencel and was classified as a type of artificial silk but The Federal Trade Commission designated, in 1996, Lyocell fibers as a separate fiber group, the first in 30 years. In May 2004, Lenzing who previously sold Lyocell under the name of Lenzing Lyocell, took over Tencel and is now the leading producer in the market.
Contents
Benefits
Eucalyptus trees, from which lyocell is derived, grow rapidly on marginal lands without artificial irrigation, gene manipulation or synthetic pesticides.
Lyocell has a smooth fibre surface and round cross section. This fibrillar structure enables improved dye pickup and achieves vibrant colours and a slight sheen on the surface of the fabric while using less dye-stuff and less water throughout the dyeing process.
In all applications, lyocell has moisture wicking properties, good absorbency, is wrinkle resistant and has good drapability.
Fiber production is environmentally friendly in comparison to the production of viscose that requires environmentally hazardous chemicals. To transform hard wood into lyocell fabric, the cellulose must be separated from other compounds found in the trees. The wood material is dissolved through an intensive chemical processes into a pulp, which is then extruded to form fibres. The solvent used to transform the pulp into fibre is amine oxide (NMMO=N-Methyl-Morpholine-N-Oxide), which is considered non-toxic.
TENCEL® lyocell is the registered brand name for lyocell fibres manufactured by Lenzing in Austria. The TENCEL® lyocell fibre manufacturing process operates as a closed loop system, in which 99.8% of the solvent is recovered, filtered and reused and any remaining emissions are broken down harmlessly in biological wastewater treatment plants.[1,2,3]
Lenzing also claims that the trees used as feedstock for TENCEL® lyocell are harvested from sustainably managed farms certified by the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) or Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification (PEFC).4 Lenzing has also confirmed that pulp used for the manufacture of TENCEL® lyocell fibre is supplied from production locations that comply with the EU Timber Regulation.[4,5]
Since lyocell fibre absorbs and redirects moisture (i.e., sweat) fewer washings may be needed, resulting in water and energy savings as well as reduced wear and tear that occurs with repeated laundering.
The dyeing process for lyocell can significantly reduce water consumption and dye and chemical use due to its good colour absorption.
Depending on the dyes and trims used, lyocell may be biodegradable if disposed of in optimum environmental conditions (exposure to water, air, light).4 Lenzing has reported in a Biodegradability Technical Bulletin that TENCEL® lyocell fibres were found to have degraded completely after 6 weeks when composted.[6]
Potential impacts
Processing
To transform hard wood into lyocell fabric, the cellulose must be separated from other compounds found in the trees. The wood material is dissolved through an intensive chemical processes into a pulp, which is then extruded to form fibres. The solvent used to transform the pulp into fibre is amine oxide (NMMO=N-Methyl-Morpholine-N-Oxide), which is considered non-toxic. Currently, the solvents used for lyocell are derived from petrochemicals. However, the solvents are being recovered and reused.
Dyeing
Although the dyeing process for lyocell can significantly reduce water consumption and dye and chemical use due to its good colour absorption, the dyeing process still involves standard industry chemicals and water use. Although color absorption is good lyocell requires special paints and work and is one of the reasons that the price level is a little higher than similar fibers.
Availability
Most lyocell made is TENCEL® lyocell. TENCEL® lyocell is readily available and the fibre is produced in three production sites: Mobile, Alabama, USA; Grimsby, United Kingdom; and Heiligenkreuz, Burgenland, Austria.
End use
There are many different ways where Lyocell is used making it what could be called an all-around fabric. You can prepare material in many different ways, for example: giving it a woolly or silky feel. This is done by allowing people to control the fibrillation. You can also get Tencel ® (lyocell lenzinger) in a non-fibrillated variant which is called: Tencel ® LF and Tencel A100 ®.
As staple fiber, Lyocell is used in denim, lingerie and even towels. These types of products have a more silky feel and are used instead of filaments. Lyocell is easy to mix with other fibers such as Cotton, this blend provides improved properties such as strength and luster, and a mixture with wool provides more absorption of moisture. Typical products of these materials include denim, dress pants, jackets, dress shirts, blouses, active wear, sleepwear, work wear, and home textiles such as bedding and filling material for mattresses and blankets.In addition, it is used as nonwowens to faux leather, filters, hygiene products, cosmetic and medical products.
Marketing opportunities
TENCEL® lyocell Fabric should be referred to as TENCEL® lyocell.
low impact fibre Since lyocell is derived from a natural renewable resource, and developed using a closed loop process it is considered a low impact fibre, and can be safely labeled as such.
FSC-certified If TENCEL® lyocell from FSC-certified plantations is used, this can be claimed.
PEFC-certified If TENCEL® lyocell from PEFC-certified plantations is used, this can be claimed.
biodegradable All fibres, yarns, trims and dyes used to manufacture the product or garment must also be biodegradable, or disassembled before disposal. This should be substantiated with documentation that the product can completely break down into non-toxic material by being processed in a facility where compost is accepted. Secondary label or marketing material should be provided to instruct customer.
Innovation opportunities
1. Design garments with lyocell used in high-perspiration areas of the garment, such as the underarm, to take advantage of its moisture absorbing and wicking properties.
2. Explore innovative fabrications that use blends with lyocell (with organic cotton/recycled cotton, for example).
3. Use tags and hangtags to encourage consumers to wash cotton garments in cold water, and tumble dry and iron only when necessary.
4. Design completely biodegradable garments where all fibres and component parts compost fully and safely. Partner with composting facilities to guarantee effectiveness of composting ability. Communicate with customers the proper disposal through
POS and hangtags.
5. Create a lyocell/cotton blended jean. Blend at least 25% lyocell with cotton to improve washing processes, and reduce water and chemical use.
6. Design garments and products with reusable (synthetic) trims, and a biodegradable body. Design the product so that non-biodegradable trims, tags, buttons, etc., can be easily separated from the main body of the product at the end of its useful life. Create collection systems for the products. Collect products and separate trims from biodegradable lyocell body. Distribute lyocell to compost facility, and reuse trims.
Sources
- Textile Exchange “TENCEL® lyocell From Lenzing” March 2011
- http://www.lenzing.com/sites/botanicprinciples/website/index.htm
- symposium.lenzing.com/fileadmin/template/pdf/lectures_speakersLCA_Li_shen.pdf
- Dr. Bianca SCHACHTNER, personal communication, January 14, 2014.
- ec.europa.eu/environment/forests/timber_regulation.htm
- Http://www.spuntech.com/files/sertificates/Biodegradability.pdf
