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Polyamide

7,975 bytes added, 11:27, 16 April 2015
/* Innovation opportunities */
'''Polyamide 6 and 6,6''' are manufactured, man-made fibres that are formed from a chemical process using carbon, hydrogen, oxygen and nitrogen atoms. They differ in that they each begin with different polymer building blocks.[1 ] The manufacturing process of Polyamide 6 and 6,6 is highly chemical and is derived from petroleum, a non-renewable resource. Also, the fibre and its resulting fabric are non-biodegradable. Efforts to address sustainability in these areas could help the overall impact of polyamide on the environment.
== Benefits ==
Polyamide 6 and Polyamide 6,6 share a lot of the same fibre characteristics. They have strong wear resistance, abrasion resistance, chemical resistance, heat resistance, are lustrous, have a high melting point, and are resilient.[1]Polyamide 6,6 has greater resilience, a higher melting point, and lower stain permeability than polyamide 6, which makes polyamide 6,6 perfect for carpet.[2]The most notable characteristic of both polyamide 6 and 6,6 is versatility. Although originally developed as an “artificial silk,” it has been used for a vast variety of applications. Polyamide fibres are used for garments, sheer hosiery, parachute cloth, backpackers' tents, bridal veils, musical strings, rope, broom and tooth brush bristles, Velcro and many other applications.[3]<br/>Polyamide 6 and 6,6 blend well with other fibres, and their chief contributions are strength and abrasion resistance.[1]Polyamide 6 and 6,6 are machine washable, dry quickly, need little pressing, and holds shape well since they neither shrinks nor stretches, thereby minimizing water and energy use associated with consumer care and washing.[4]
Due to their durability and abrasion resistance, some Polyamide 6 and 6,6 products have the potential to last and be worn many times, optimizing the energy and resources embodied in the product.
===Dyeing and finishing===
Certain types of dyes are suspected [http://www.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carcinogen carcinogens] and [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mutagen mutagens], while other dyes are known to have a sensitizing effect on skin and should be avoided. Untreated dye water can negatively impact receiving water bodies and harm aquatic ecosystems if left untreated before its release.
 
====Durable water repellents (DWR)====
[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Durable_water_repellent Durable water repellents] (DWR) are applied to polyamide 6 and 6,6 garments and products to allow for breathability and water repellency. Fluorochemicals are commonly used in these water-repellent finishes and waterproof membranes (thin films or coatings attached to the back of fabrics to prevent water from passing through). Two fluorinated compounds are of most concern, perfluorooctane sulfonate (PFOS) and perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA), since they are known to have persistent, bioaccumulative and toxicological effects on the environment. The European Union has banned PFOS and some countries in the EU have also banned PFOA.[6]
Waterproof membranes are engineered to be breathable, and are commonly derived from petroleum and made using PFOA.
===Consumer care/and washing===Polyamide products are typically machine-washed. Certain at-home detergents have been reported to have detrimental affects on humans and the environment, contribute to ozone depletion and can pollute wastewater.
===End of use===
Synthetic fibres are from a carbon-based chemical feedstock and are considered non-biodegradable.[7] <br/>Polyamide 6 and 6,6 products have the durability to last many years, however if they are discarded, could sit in the landfill for decades.
Discarded polyamide products increase load on landfills, contribute to land and water contamination and possibly toxic emissions into the air.[8] <br/>When incinerated, polyamide 6 and 6,6 emit chemicals, such as nitrogen oxide, formaldehyde, hydrogen cyanide and acrolein, that are poisonous and possible carcinogens.[9]
==Alternatives to virgin polyamide==
===Recycled polyamide===
Using recycled polyamide achieves two main ecological benefits: 1) it slows the depletion of virgin natural resources, and 2) it reduces textile waste building in landfills. Polyamide can be recycled into new versions of the same product or into entirely different products.
 
Post-consumer waste from used and discarded products and post-industrial waste from material collected during the product manufacturing can be recycled. There are two processes for recycling polyamide fibres: mechanical and chemical.
 
===Mechanical recycling===
Polyamide 6 and 6,6 can be effectively collected, cleaned, cut, re-melted and remolded to make yarns. However, the fibre is “downcycled” in this manner, which means that its physical structure breaks down, and eventually the product must be discarded to landfill.[10]
 
Collection, sorting and purifying discarded synthetic garments (i.e., post-consumer waste) is currently cumbersome. Infrastructures for labeling, collection and sorting need to be improved so that the post-consumer raw material source can scale to be economically viable.
 
===Chemical recycling===
There is potential for polyamide 6 to be chemically recycled. Chemical recycling involves breaking the polymer into its molecular parts and reforming the molecules into a yarn of equal strength and quality as the original, in perpetuity. In this process, the chemical building blocks are separated (depolymerization) and reassembled (repolymerization), forming what is known as a “closed loop” where the final stage of the product's lifecycle (disposal) forms the first stage of the next product (raw fibre). Closed loop recycled polyamide processing is currently limited to Polyamide 6, and is expensive in part because it is a relatively new technology. In addition, the infrastructure to label, collect, sort and purify discarded garments must be in place.[12]
==Optimize sustainability benefits==
• Promote the use of chemically recycled, closed loop Polyamide 6.
{| class="wikitable"• Support developments of chemically recycled Polyamide 6,6.|-! style="background• Investigate developments in bio-color:#66cdaa;width:300px;color:#ffffff" | OPPORTUNITY! style="background-color:#66cdaa;width:300px;color:#ffffff" | BENEFITS! style="background-color:#66cdaa;width:300px;color:#ffffff" | CONSIDERATIONS|-| '''Know the difference between natural bamboo linen fabricpolyamide 6, and bamboo made which use amino acids derived from a viscose process.''' || || Bamboo viscose is chemically processed and has greater pollution impacts to water and airdextrose fermentation as the starting material, instead of petroleum.[13]|• Investigate non-toxic flame retardant applications for polyamide.| '''Promote the use of linen from bamboo productshalogen-free flame retardants.''' || Once the fibre is extracted from the stem, processing bamboo into yarn  • Investigate non-toxic waterproofing methods for linen is largely mechanical, with minimal environmental impactpolyamide. || |- | '''Promote the use of ozone bleaching processes to strip out the natural beige colour of linen OEKO-TEK certified polyamide.[14]OEKO-TEK is an independent, third party certifier that offers two certifications for textiles: OEKO-TEK 100 (from flaxfor products). <br and OEKO-TEK 1000 (for production sites/><br />Promote the particular aesthetic of ozone bleach effectsfactories).''' || Ozone can used be with OEKO-TEK 100 label aims to ensure that products pose no water at allrisk to health. || Ozone has limited availability, OEKO-TEK certified products do not contain allergenic dye-stuffs and is relatively expensive since it requires investment in ozone generating equipmentdye-stuffs that form carcinogenic aryl-amines. <br /><br />Ozone processes produce The certification process includes thorough testing for a different aesthetic than chlorine derivative or permanganate bleachinglong list of chemicals. Specifically banned are: AZO dyes, carcinogenic and allergy-inducing dyes, pesticides, chlorinated phenols, extractable heavy metals, emissions of volatile components, and more.|}• Investigate PFOS- and PFOA-free water repellants. • Investigate using waterproof membranes from renewable resources.
==Availability==
OEKO-TEK® Standard 100 certified polyamide is available. Manufacturers can be found at: www.OEKO-TEK.com
 
Non-toxic methods of waterproofing and flame retardancy are available.
 
Recycled polyamide is available globally in United States, Europe, Slovenia, Croatia, China, Japan and Israel.[15],[16]
== End use==
Jackets, lingerie, swimwear, exercise wear, hosiery, jackets, bedspreads, carpets, upholstery, tents, fish nets, sleeping bags, rope, parachutes, luggage.
 
Some companies are producing versions of mechanically recycled polyamide that are of almost equal quality to virgin polyamide.
==Marketing opportunities==
'''X% Recycled Content''' Regulations require stating percent recycled if not 100% recycled content.<br/>
'''non-toxic DWR methods''' If used and verified.<br/>
'''non-toxic methods of waterproofing''' If used and verified.<br/>
'''OEKO-TEK® Standard 100 certified''' If verified and used.<br/>
'''XX% bio-based''' If verified and used.
==Innovation opportunities==
1. Investigate alternative technologies for colouring polyamide fabrics, such as transfer printing, which eliminates water from the dyeing process.[17]<br/><br/>
2. Design garments and products with reusable elements for easy disassembly. Design the product so that trims, tags, buttons, etc., can be easily separated from the main body of the product at the end of its useful life, to enable easy in-house recycling. Create collection systems for the products. Collect, disassemble, reuse.<br/><br/>
3. Create internal store collections of polyamide 6 and 6,6 garments and products. Use fabric from collected garments and products to innovatively redesign new products and prolong the lifecycle.<br/><br/>
4. Work with partners to develop closed loop recycling of polyamide 6 and 6,6 fibres and infrastructure to label, collect, sort and purify garments.<br/><br/>
5. Explore the unique aesthetics of recycled polyamide to encourage innovative design of products.<br/><br/>
6. In the cases where recycled polyamide 6 and 6,6 affect the aesthetic of the garment, craft marketing messages to turn potential negatives into positives.<br/><br/>
7. Explore alternative fibres in replacement of polyamide that utilize cleaner manufacturing process, enable easier recycling or are biodegradable.<br/><br/>
8. Get your product Cradle to Cradle Certified. The Cradle to Cradle CertifiedTM Product Standard is a multi-attribute, continuous improvement methodology that provides a path to manufacturing healthy and sustainable products. The Standard rewards achievement in five categories and at five levels of certification. An accredited assessor will help to assess and optimize your product.<br/><br/>
9. Be knowledgeable about the most environmentally impacted stages of the polyamide lifecycle. Work with partners to decrease impacts of these stages.
==Sources==
# http://www.ensinger-online.com/en/materials/engineering-plastics/polyamides/
# antron.net/na/pdfs/literature/K02510_N66vsN6_Tech_Bulletin_06_18_13.pdf
# Freinkel, Susan. PLASTIC A Toxic Love Story. New York: Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2011.
# http://www.engr.utk.edu/~mse/Textiles/Nylon%20fibres.htm
# http://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/csem/benzene/docs/benzene.pdf
# http://www.patagonia.com/pdf/en_US/fluorochemicals.pdf
# Grose, Lynda and Kate Fletcher. Fashion & Sustainability: Design for Change. London: Laurence King Publishing Ltd, 2012.
# http://www.epa.gov/ttnchie1/le/acrylon.pdf
#denr.sd.gov/des/wm/sw/documents/OpenBurningChemicalList.pdf
# The Textile Dyer, “Concern over Recycled Polyester,” May 13, 2008.
# oecotextiles.wordpress.com/2009/07/14/why-is-recycled-polyester-considered-a-sustainable-textile/#_ftn6
# hrd.apec.org/images/a/aa/62.4.pdf
# http://www.chemsystems.com/about/cs/news/items/PERP%200910_1_Caprolactam.cfm
# http://www.OEKO-TEK.com/media/downloads/Factsheet_OETS_100_EN.pdf
# http://www.aquafil.com/en/about-us/worldwide.html
# http://www.thecleanestline.com/2009/03/closing-the-loop-a-report-on-patagonias-common-threads-garment-recycling-program.html
# http://www.triplepundit.com/2009/07/airdye-dyeing-fabric-without-water/