Difference between revisions of "Jute"

Latest revision as of 15:52, 30 March 2015

Jute has a reputation as a sustainable fibre. In 100% form, it is biodegradable, with relatively harmless processing. Although jute is generally used for sacks and bags, it represents an opportunity in other applications to feature its sustainable qualities. Jute is a natural bast fibre along with kenaf, hemp, ramie, bamboo and flax. Jute fibre and fabric are often called Hessian. Jute sacks are called Gunny Bags in some European countries. In North America, the fabric made from jute is known as Burlap. In Spanish, jute is called Yute and jute fabrics are called Arpillera.

Benefits

Jute is a long, soft, shiny plant fibre that can be spun into coarse, strong threads. Jute is one of the most inexpensive natural fibres and is second only to cotton in the amount produced and variety of uses.[1] Jute is a fast-growing renewable fibre that is annually farmed. Jute will grow to a length of 1 to 4 meters in 3 to 4 months.[2] Jute is a biologically efficient, low maintenance crop that requires few chemical inputs during the growing season. It is mainly rain fed, traditionally farmed and grown similarly to organic produce.[3]

Jute has a natural luster and is valued for its durability, fair abrasion resistance, and high tensile strength. Jute fibre has anti-static properties, heat insulation and low elongation, which helps to retain its shape. Jute fibre is colour- and light-fast. Jute may be grown organically, but must meet the certification requirements of an internationally recognized certification agency accredited by International Federation of Agriculture Movements (IFOAM).
Studies reveal that the CO2 assimilation rate of jute is several times higher than that of trees. During the jute growing period, one hectare of jute plants can absorb about 15 metric tonnes of CO2 from the atmosphere and release about 11 metric tonnes of oxygen.[6] In 100% form, jute is biodegradable. Although collective data does not exist regarding how long it takes for jute to fully decompose, one source reports that jute will completely break down in 2 to 3 years (as apposed to polyester which can take anywhere from 40 to 1000 years to break down).[7]
Due to its extensive root system, jute can help reduce soil loss and erosion and is particularly suitable for crop rotation. Since the leaves of the plant are left in the field after harvest, the nitrogen they contain absorbs into the soil and food crops can be grown immediately without having to leave the fields fallow.[8] Once the jute fibre is extracted from the stem, processing it into yarn is largely mechanical with minimal environmental impact.

Potential impacts

Processing

Jute is a bast fibre and is extracted directly from the stalk of the plant in a process similar to that used for flax, hemp and bamboo (for linen). The fibre is extracted through a process called retting, which separates the fibre from the stems using microorganisms and moisture. This is carried out in the field (with dew retting) or in tanks (water or chemical retting). Dew retting is preferred as it utilizes the natural moisture of dew, but is a longer process, taking 2 to 3 weeks to break down the stems slowly. Although chemical retting is a faster process, the wastewater is concentrated and rich in chemicals and biological matter, which negatively impacts receiving water bodies and aquatic ecosystems if left untreated before its release.9 Although organic certification disallows the use of chemicals in the growing of jute, it does not necessarily guarantee low water use, fair labor practices or a fair price to the farmer.

Dyeing, blending and treatments

The natural colour of jute fibre is beige, and jute yarn or fabric must be bleached with chlorine to render it light enough to receive dyes for light or clear shades. Chlorine bleach can form halogenated organic compounds in the wastewater. These compounds bioaccumulate in the food chain, are known teratogens and mutagens, are suspected human carcinogens and cause reproductive harm. Jute can also be blended with wool. By treating jute with caustic soda (also called “lye”), crimp, softness, pliability and appearance is improved, aiding in its ability to be spun with wool. Due to its toxic nature, even a small quantity of caustic soda in a diluted solution can cause skin burns or injure the eyes, causing blindness.[11]

Consumer care/washing

Jute may be washed or dry-cleaned. Electricity and water use in the care of the garment can cause significant environmental impacts. Moreover, jute wrinkles easily and requires heavy pressing to render it smooth after wash. This uses significant amounts of electrical energy over the long term.

End of use

Although 100% jute fibre is biodegradable, the amount of time it could take for a jute product to decompose naturally and in a short period of time is dependent upon a number of conditions—including how much air, temperature and sunlight the fibre is exposed to. If the waste is buried in a landfill, it can take even longer for it to break down.

Optimize sustainability benefits

Availability

Jute is readily available in 100% form as well as blends with wool and silk. About 95% of the world’s jute is grown in India and Bangladesh. Nepal, Myanmar, China, Thailand, Vietnam and Brazil also produce jute. Pakistan imports a substantial amount of raw jute from Bangladesh for processing.[12] A number of farmers in Bangladesh are currently growing organic jute. Organic certification by an internationally recognized certification agency accredited by IFOAM must be in place.

Application

In 100% form, jute is highly durable and suitable for many applications including twine and rope, sackings, carpets, wrapping fabrics (cotton bale), and the construction fabric manufacturing industry. It can be used in curtains, chair coverings, carpets and carpet backing, rugs, and backing for linoleum. Other uses include espadrille shoes. Jute can be used in home textiles, either replacing cotton or wool or blending with it. Finest jute threads can be separated out and made into imitation silk. In 100% form and fabric blends, jute fibre is suitable for jackets and skirts.

Marketing opportunities

fast-growing natural resource
low water footprint in growing
biodegradable (depending on dyes and trims used) All fibres, yarns, trims and dyes used to manufacture the product or garment must also be biodegradable, or disassembled before disposal. This should be substantiated with documentation that the product can completely break down into non-toxic material by being processed in a facility where compost is accepted. Secondary label or marketing material should be provided to instruct customer.
non-chlorine bleached If alternative bleach is used.
organic All fibres, yarn, trims and dyes used to manufacture the garment must comply with the GOTS organic garment standard. Simply state “made from 100% organic jute” if this is verified and accurate.

Innovation opportunities

1. As an alternative to plastic bags, develop a 100% biodegradable jute bag (undyed with biodegradable trims) with instructions to the customer on proper disposal.

2. Create a jute product that is 100% biodegradable and compostable: the product can break down in a reasonable amount of time and can provide valuable nutrients to the soil.

3. Use jute fibre in blends with cotton to achieve grey/beige heather effects, then over-dye the cotton side to achieve heathered colours without using chlorine bleach.

4. Use 100% jute in stripes with cotton, then over-dye to achieve tonal colours without using chlorine bleach.

5. Strategically place jute at places of high stress on products, such as the knees or elbows, to maximize its physically durable properties.

6. Ease effects of cotton growth and cultivation by replacing jute with cotton in applications for denim.

7. Develop garments and products that are designed to be easily deconstructed to enable a take-back and recycling program. Experiment with seaming and a variety of disassembly mechanisms in different fabrics.

Sources

1. avmchemical.com/data/uploads/articles/article-7-what-is-jute.pdf
2. fao.org/economic/futurefibres/fibres/jute/en/
3. purejute.com/en/pure-jute/jute-environment.html
4. hempage.de/cms/
5. resource-fibre.com/wp-content/uploads/RF_RFA_Founded_PR_0731121.pdf
6. Inagaki, H (2000). Progress on Kenaf in Japan. Third Annual Conference, held at American Kenaf Society,Texas, USA, 2000Lam Thi Bach Tuyet, Hori Keko and Iiyama Kenzi (2003). Journal of Wood Science 49(3): 255-261.
7. freesetglobal.com/who-we-are/faq.html
8. commodityonline.com/commodities/fibres/jute.php
9. “Beginner’s Guide to Sustainable Fibres,” Textile Exchange, 2011
10. ncsu.edu/bioresources/BioRes_06/BioRes_06_4_5260_Paridah_ASZ_Retting_Bast_Fibre_Quality_Review_1312.pdf
11. ppg.com/chemicals/chloralkali/products/Documents/CausticSodamanual2008.pdf
12. fao.org/economic/futurefibres/fibres/jute/en/